COASTING SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND, SOLOMONS

13 April 2025

My time at Conflict Bay was wonderful.  A calm anchorage, good walks ashore, some shopping at the local market and stores, dinner ashore at the Lodge.  Three happy days.  But, time to move on again and I have said my goodbyes to my new friends.  Just as I was departing Elijah’s daughter came out in a canoe to bring me some fresh coconuts for the voyage, so thoughtful and really appreciated.

My plan was to stop at Kirakira where I had been told I could get some cash money at the National Bank of South Pacific (NBP) who have a branch there.  The Solomons is very much a cash society and getting hold of cash can be difficult and time consuming

It was pancake calm as we departed from Conflict Bay and left Guadalcanal island astern. Once clear of the island we sailed steadily in a light NE breeze.  We made it almost all the way to the top of San Cristobal island, some forty miles distant before having to resort to engine power for the last few miles.  Late afternoon, as the sun was calling for drinks we anchored in Marou Bay,  The anchorage had some current and we rolled gently in the low swell overnight. 

The next morning there was no wind, we motored down to Uki Island and anchored for the night.  Uki Island was a quiet place, a few canoes came out to trade fruit and veggies.  Next day, calm again, another motoring day.  As much as I dislike it on days like this the only option is to use the motor if progress is to be made.  We arrived and anchored at Kirakira mid morning.  I didn’t like the anchorage much, swell was coming into the bay with a lee shore.  I launched the dinghy and was straight ashore, intending to do all my business that day and depart the following morning.

Landing ashore was a bit challenging in the surf on a steep shingle beach.  As luck would have it, I timed it to perfection and skipped ashore, hardly getting my feet wet. 

The town is very relaxed, with greenery and flowers everywhere.  My first disappointment was at the bank.  They could not process my credit card.  No cash.  They advised I try he agent who ran a shop, off I went and eventually found the agent.  She was most helpful but still no luck, her terminal was not working.  Oh well, such is life, you cant always get what you want.

I noticed I was being followed so stopped to see what was going on.  The gentlemen approached me and introduced himself, he was a policemen.  Would I like to come to the station for a chat?  I had nothing else to do and this seemed interesting so I tagged along.  It transpired that the novelty of a non local white man wandering around has aroused their curiosity – that was all.  We had a good chat.  I was happy to take my time as the room was air conditioned and it was hot outside.  Soon I was on my way again and did a bit of shopping with the last of my cash at a local store before returning to the boat. 

The next morning I had the anchor up at first light and we were on our way to Star Harbour.  This was quite a long day run, almost forty miles, the wind was light and we mostly motor sailed, arriving late afternoon at the anchorage.  Star harbour is the sort of place you take an instant liking to.  It’s a wonderful enclosed natural harbour, not too deep and a nice muddy bottom.  You could ride out a cyclone here with the boat anchored and lashed into the mangroves.

Here I traded for fresh fruit and vegetables, really nice, fresh from the gardens.  There was also fresh crayfish on very reasonable terms.  I was eating well and all good natural foods. 

Ashore I met the locals who were all very friendly and welcoming.  The local children showed me around and took me on walks.  We stopped at the small shop where I was able to spend the last of my Solomons money, loose change, on lollies for my helpers.   

I met the school master, an elderly Kiwi gentleman, we had some interesting conversation.  It always interests me the people you bump into in out of the way places. 

The village of Namuga at Star Harbour is famous for a visit by the Queen (Queen Elizabeth II) in 1974.  The Royal yacht Britannia anchored off and the Queen and Prince Phillip came ashore by launch.  What a sight that must have been for the locals.  There is a platform where the queen was received and next to it a plinth where a plaque was placed to celebrate the visit.  The plaque has disappeared.

I met an old lady who remembers the visit, she said it was a wonderful day, people came from miles around to attend and see the Queen.  Amazing how word got around .

When I was an apprentice, I had the pleasure of being on a ship that was supporting the Royal Yacht on a visit to the Mediterranean.  I was impressed when the Royal Yacht anchored, the sailors painted the anchor chain white from the hawse pipe to the water, it looked very smart. 

One particular night stands out in my memory.  We were in the Aegean Sea at night, the royal yacht was steaming alongside, we were doing a fuel replenishment at sea at about ten knots.  The sea was flat calm, the stars were out and the Royal Marine Band were playing Jazz on the upper deck.  It all looked and sounded perfect.  It is a magical memory.

There is a cell tower serving the village of Namuga.  It is powered by solar energy and usually by early afternoon switches on to provide a phone signal and data.  Its not too reliable as there are no back up batteries and if a cloud passes over the signal disappears.

My next destination is Lata around two hundred miles to the East.  I will be clearing out from Lata, departing the Solomons and heading down to Vanuatu.