WINDLESS FROM GIZO TO CONFLICT BAY

5 April 2025

Good news, the Solomons beer is good and reasonably priced, first impressions of a country can always be gained through its beer, positive so far.

Departing from Gizo there was no wind and no wind on the forecast for a few days.  To make any progress I had to use the motor, there was no option.  By early afternoon we crossed the shallow reef between the outlaying islands and anchored off Boboe Village.  The engine was switched off and would have a few hours to cool down before evening as its acts like a storage heater, just what you don’t want in this hot climate. 

Children came out from the village in canoes, child size canoes that had been built by their fathers.  The children were hyperactive so I tasked them with collecting some coconuts for me from a nearby island.  They returned with lovely fresh coconuts and were happy with their reward. 

The next morning we were away again, motoring out from the anchorage and finding just enough breeze to make headway towards Noro, just eleven miles distant.  We arrived in the early afternoon and picked up a mooring in the under-construction Noro Marina.  There are a few moorings here in a sheltered bay.  This will be a superb facility when it is complete.  Hilde looks after the marina, a lovely lady who is most helpful and knowledgeable.  Noro is a relaxing place, a contrast to the dust and bustle of Gizo.  There is an excellent market, shops and a store that sells a wide range of Australian and New Zealand foods, meats, cheese, butter, chocolate, beers, wines etc.

Noro also has a duty-free fuel dock for overseas vessels.  There is a minimum delivery but by a couple of other yachts clubbing together we manage to order sufficient fuel to meet the minimum and top everybody off.  A large number of jerry cans and fuel containers were needed.  Truce being the smallest yacht only required 120 ltr to top up the tanks.  The fuel dock only took cash and getting cash proved to be a mission. 

The ATM had run out of money, and I had to que up at the bank, it took a while and a long hot walk.  The ATM’s frequently seem to run out of cash.  One of the locals told me it was because the Chinese traders worked in cash and then shipped the cash back to China.  This was causing the Solomons central bank to be short of cash in circulation.  If this is true or not, I have no idea.

After a couple of days in Noro restocking, refuelling, repairing and relaxing, Truce and I headed out again.  This time heading south through the beautiful Noro Passage.  This a lovely waterway threading between reefs and islands, Unfortunately, on this day there was torrential rain, reducing visibility and no wind.  The rain was good to wash the boat off and top up the freshwater tanks.  That afternoon we anchored at Rendova Island inside a protected lagoon.  It was still raining heavily and two girls (Sisters) came out to visit in a canoe, they were completely bedraggled and shivering cold.  They brought the most appealing and healthy vegetables I have ever seen.  Despite the cold and rain they were cheerful and happy to trade.  As they had such amazing produce and had endured the weather to get to me I gave them more than I probably should have.  But they were delightful young ladies and cheered me up.  We were both happy with the trade and that’s all that matters.     

The following day we were on the move again, the rain had stopped but it was gloomy and overcast with no wind.  We motored.  The evenings anchorage Punutu Bay on Vangunu Island was a strange place.  Upon arrival at the anchorage a large dead crocodile floated past, belly up.  The day was too far gone to look for another anchorage so I dropped the hook and went below out of the drizzle to get some food and a cuppa on the go.  The following morning the weather was a bit brighter and I could hear voices on the shore.  There were groups of people shouting and waving at me from between the trees.  The rest just stood and watched like zombies.  I went below for my morning kick start coffee, when I came back they were still there.  Most strange.  I did a little dance on the foredeck for them and got some shouts and waves back.  I didn’t feel comfortable, the dead crocodile and the Zombie people were a bit weird.  So without waiting for breakfast I weighed anchor and departed.

Another day of windless motoring was ahead.  We didn’t go far, just ten miles to another anchorage off Ulukoru Island.  This was  a good sheltered anchorage behind the island and the swell disappeared.  This place is deserted and I didn’t see any people.  Quite unusual as in these parts people seem to pop up everywhere.  There was however a thriving population of hungry mosquitoes.  Very annoying and itchy.  I weighed anchor early the next morning.  Again, no wind and we motored.

Next was Mbili anchorage, there was another yacht anchored here.  A Gentleman came out in his canoe, he introduced himself as the Chief and wanted an anchoring fee and proceeded to give me the hard sell on carvings.  I found his attitude annoying, all take and no give, he and his brother had also seemed to have stopped the other villagers coming out to visit and trade.  They wanted to have the market to themselves.  Their carvings were very good and high quality, another boat brought some for what I thought was an exorbitant price.  But they were very happy with their purchase, I suppose it will be a lasting memory for them.

Anyway, I traded for some merger supply of fruit and coconuts, giving out some sandpaper, epoxy glue, superglue and an old (but good) chisel.  The recipient didn’t seem too happy with the trade so I cut him off.  I can do without a bad attitude.  I was going to stay a couple of days here and look around (it’s a lovely anchorage), but didn’t like the hard sell and greedy attitude so moved on at first light the next morning.

We departed through the Mbili passage for the 50 or 60 mile trip across to the Russell Islands.  Once clear of the passage a good S’ly breeze filled in, we were close hauled on the starboard tack doing a good speed but aiming a bit too far to the north of the Russell’s.  I didn’t care it was good to be sailing again after days of calms.

My joy was short lived as the wind slowly disappeared.  At midnight we were becalmed to the north of the Russel Islands.  I had intended to anchor there, quite frustrating.  A light breeze came back in the morning, from the direction we wanted to go of course.  All sail set and close hauled we set off towards the north end of Guadalcanal Island.  I was in a dark mood, the adverse winds, calms and clatter of the engine were getting to me.  I shouted at the wind gods but they couldn’t care less, they just sent a squall and rain cloud as punishment for my disrespect. 

That evening, I anchored in Komimbo Bay, on the north end of Guadalcal, we rolled a bit during the night in the swell.  Nobody came out from shore.  The anchorage was becoming rolly, there didn’t seem to be anything interesting ashore so we departed at first light to continue our way south.  The next stop was on the coast at Tadimboko Bay.  Here I got a great reception, many canoes came out and I invited a few of the locals on board, we had many stories to swap.  The fruit and veg here was excellent and we did some good trading.  I noticed that most of the canoes here were plastic, made locally.  Quite unusual to see plastic canoes, they didn’t need the almost constant bailing of the wooden variety.  The visitors kept coming late into the night, enjoyable as it was, I eventually had to call a halt and get some sleep.

From Tadimboko we had a 20 mile trip to Rua Sura Island, no wind again today, we motored all the way.  The chart is not too accurate here but with the help of a satellite image I found a good spot to anchor just off the fringing reef.  I saw one person on shore but no canoes came out.    

From Rua Sura Island we motor sailed in fickle headwinds towards Conflict Bay.  We anchored in calm water just off the Conflict Bay Lodge.  A lovely anchorage, protected by the offlaying reef and quite calm in settled conditions.  Here I met with Elijah the owner of the lodge and arranged for a meal ashore that evening.  A lovely meal, fresh seafood, rice and veggies washed down with some cool amber nectar.  I returned to Truce satiated.

I was interested as to how Conflict Bay got its name.  Elijah told the story of how, many years ago an Australian blackbirding sailing vessel came to the bay and carried off many of the local population to work in the Plantations in Queensland.  The removal was not without a struggle it seems, hence the name Conflict Bay.  Many of the descendants of these removed people are living in Australia and have ties back to their families and local community at Conflict Bay. 

 I had been moving steadily since Noro and hadn’t been ashore at any of the anchorages I stopped at on the way.  Here, I determined to spend a few days, stretch my legs and have a look around before moving on again.