SAILING TO SOUTH LOMBOK

30 January 2024

It took a couple of days to finalise the storing and fueling, at a leisurely pace.  The weather had changed and the mooring at Medana was not too comfortable. With food and fluids on board we let go from the Medana Bay Marina mooring and headed out to sea.  Well, that sounds dramatic, in fact we only motored around to the next bay, Tembobor Bay, where we anchored for the night.  I was happy to get away from the marina and rely on the anchor for a while.

Tembobor bay is a good anchorage but also subject to a northerly swell, the same as Medana Bay.  I would have liked to stay longer in Tembobor Bay but after so long in Medana I was eager to move along.  Also, the northerly wind was good for sailing south down the coast.  At first light the next morning I was up and about and we were soon on our way south past Gili Aer and then Senggigi with a good wind helping us along towards the South Gili Islands. 

This is another new area for me, I am not certain what I will find.  I have heard good things about the south Gili islands and am looking forward to exploring them.  As we progressed south the wind played fickle tricks and the tide and currents toyed around with us.   With no firm destination planned in the South Gili islands I just went with the best wind angle. As we made our way south the wind selected Gili Sudak as our destination.  I decided to tuck in around Gili Sudak, through a reef fringed channel.  There we would be protected from the north westerly winds and in calm water.

The anchorage at Gili Sudak was in 20m water and quite affected by strong currents running through the channel.  I let out all the available anchor chain, ensured we were securely anchored and relaxed.  This was an interesting spot with large floating fishing traps dotted around the bay on anchors.  A short dinghy ride away were a couple of small islands with warungs on them catering to tourists, both local and foreign.    

Gili Sudak was a good anchorage but after 2 days the wind swung west and increased.  Nothing serious but the wind against tide built up a bit of a chop and became uncomfortable, even more so when we had the dreaded wind against tide anchoring scenario.  I decided to move around the corner into Lembar anchorage and anchored off the small village of Telagalupi in 11m water, a mud bottom and flat calm.  The anchorage at Telagalupi turned out to be very protected from both the north and west.  Although not a ‘pretty’ anchorage I was happy anchored with the commercial ships in the bay.

One of the ships at anchor was the ex Cable and Wireless cable repair ship ‘Pacific Guardian’.  This ship was built at Swan Hunter in the UK in 1984 at a cost of £18m, very expensive at the time and a state-of-the-art cable layer.  She is now under the Indonesian flag and will be engaged in laying inter island cables within Indonesia.  Good to see the old ship still working for her living when most modern ships are obsolete after 20 years.

The village ashore was small with just a track from the village leading to the main road.  The locals were very friendly and helpful.  For some reason they seemed to be extremely keen on volleyball which they played each afternoon to big crowds.  They play the game on a very rudimentary soil court by the beach.

After a few days my Telkomsel phone sim card started playing up and the internet was dropping out.  I was told that the phone problem could be fixed in Lembar, so I got a water taxi across from Telagalupi to Lembar.  At the phone shop in Lembar I was told that my phone could only be fixed in a Telkomsel shop in Mataram.  So, I got a car from Lembar to Mataram.  In Mataram my phone problem was fixed and I did the return journey, the water taxi man was still waiting for me when I arrived and we returned to Telagalupi in the pouring rain in the late afternoon.     

After four calm nights at Telagalupi the weather was back to normal.  It was time to head back around to Gili Sudak and plan to move further west along the island chain to fresher spots.  I have enjoyed my time in Telgalupi, with easy days and good walks ashore. When walking in Indonesia the locals are always eager to say hello, especially the children who find great delight in interacting with a Bule (foreigner). Many times when walking people stop and offer me a lift, a really kind gesture. I feel guilty refusing sometimes as they may not understand that its therapy for me to just wander around and take in the local sights and sounds.

My next stop along the way will be Gili Gede where I am told there is a marina and more cruising boats.  Its always so interesting meeting new people and I am looking forward to some different company.    

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