The rain from yesterday evening continued overnight, finally giving way to some sunshine mid-morning. I spent a few minutes bailing out the pig before we could go ashore – amazing how much water collected overnight.
By ten I had visited the customs and port office to clear out from the Vava’u group. The tonnage dues came to less than ten dollars, all up the clearance into and out of Neiafu cost one hundred and thirty-one dollars.
Next on the ‘to do’ list was getting some fresh fruit and veg Fresh veg, eggs and topping up on a few dry goods. The market down by the wharf has an excellent selection of fresh produce where we also got fresh eggs.
On the way back to Truce we decided to have an early lunch at Indigo café. Our favourite café as they also seem to have decent WiFi. Eggs and bacon for me and BLT for Jessica. The bacon here is so good – unfortunately we forgot to buy some in the store.
Just after one in the afternoon we dropped the mooring and headed out of Neiafu harbour with a stiff breeze behind us. We headed to Tapana Lagoon where a friend, Steve, was moored. I met Steve last year at Warm Springs Bay, Baranof Island in Alaska. Steve is also headed back to New Zealand but at a far more leisurely pace than mine.
At three in the afternoon we entered Tapana Lagoon and saw Steve’s lovely yacht ‘Rhapsody’ tucked up in the corner, nicely sheltered. We were fortunate to find a vacant mooring close alongside and before long we were securely moored in a beautiful peaceful little bay, completely sheltered from the easterly trades.
The evening was spent on Rhapsody, chatting, eating and drinking Rum. We were joined by Linda, a charming Australian lady who is sailing her yacht single handed. Steve produced a surprisingly good Spaghetti Bolognaise – a great night was had by all.
Tomorrow morning we will rise early to head south towards Pangai in the Ha’apai Group. We need to keep heading in the direction of Nuku’alofa to make the connection with Jessica’s flight back to Melbourne on the 29th.
This morning I did the Sunday ritual of checks and cleaning. I also finally got around to clipping and securing the cables for the AIS that had been outstanding for so long. One of my opening windows (Port) has been leaking slightly since I last had a go at fixing it, this morning I did a proper job and everything is watertight again.
Having toiled away all morning I packed a backpack and went for a walk in the woods in the afternoon. It was a sparkling day with crystal clear visibility. I found a track leading to a high lookout point with spectacular views out across Chatham Strait and back across the Baranof Island to the mountains. I walked for miles, the sea legs may be aching tomorrow. I will take a hot tub later.
View from trail behind Warm Springs Bay. Photo Ray Penson
Baranof Lake above Warm Springs Bay. Photo Ray Penson
I am now back at sea level and planning my departure for tomorrow morning. The forecast is good and the tide in my favour for the first few hours. My plan now is to work around to Peril Strait and head down to Sitka. I am in need of some fresh provisions and will run out of gas in a few days, Sitka seems like the best place to replenish.
This evening we are anchored in Reb Bluff Bay on Baranof Island. The cruising guide describes this bay as a spectacular location – it is! The bay is surrounded by high snow-capped mountains with cascades falling down the steep sides for hundreds of meters. This is a room with a view.
This morning we pulled the abhor and motored in flat calm and sunshine. In the distance I could see fog lying over Frederick Sound and as we passed through some small islands the fog enveloped us. Visibility was down to about 50 meters and I was rock dodging, not nice. After an hour the fog cleared and the wind set in from the South West.
The engine went off, the jib unfurled and we were off on port tack across Chatham Strait. The wind backed to the south and the wind vane followed it around and we managed to lay the entrance to Red Bluff Bay without tacking. The sea in Chatham Strait became quite boisterous, in about forty minutes a nasty short chop had built up, made worse by wind against tide. Unfortunately, my coffee plunger took a dive and cracked. The box said it was shatterproof, obviously not crack proof. I will have to devise another method for brewing my morning coffee.
On arrival at Red Bluff Bay there were two small expedition vessel anchored with boats out doing tours and passengers paddling about in kayaks. They both departed in the early evening and a large, good looking, American Motor yacht arrived.
Of the three route options this morning I went for the west. I will now work up the east side of Baranof Island. Tomorrow I will try to get up to Warm Springs Bay. I just hope there are actually warm springs there, a warm spook would be welcome. Total voyage distance 1,114.8 miles.