CHECKING INTO SAUMLAKI

20 October 2023

The trip from Gove to Saumlaki was a slow affair, taking a full day longer than I expected.  However, once I overcame the sheer frustration of being becalmed at one point, the voyage progressed at a constant slow speed with favourable winds and a calm sea.  Sailing wing on wing it turned out to be a very pleasant trip . 

After departing from Gove on Saturday the 14^th October I decided to take the route via the Gugari Rip (Hole in the wall) through the Wessel Islands.  The Hole in the wall has a fast tidal flow and transit is best attempted at slack water with a favourable tide to take you through.  I wanted to pass through it in daylight as there was no moon so had to hang around for a few hours until nine in the morning.  By good fortune we sailed up to the entrance just on high water slack, I dropped the sails and motored through at slow speed.  It was a beautiful day and flat calm inside the passage, it’s just a cut in the rocks between two islands.  There was a lot of birdlife around and boat, artists had painted their boat names on the rocks alongside the cut.

Once out from the Gugari rip on the morning of the 15^th the motor went off and sails were set for the voyage up to Saumlaki.  The weather forecast was excellent, 10 to 15 knots all the way, I anticipated a good fast trip to arrive on the morning of the 18^th. 

The weather forecast turned out to be overly optimistic and after a good start I never saw more that 10 knots on the whole passage.  On the 17^th we were becalmed and the sails were flogging, a situation I dislike almost as much as going to the dentist.  Even the birds were fed up with no wind and hitched a ride, although why one chose to sit on the moving windvane is a mystery.

After a few frustrating hours the wind returned in a diluted form, wafting us along at between 2 and 4 knots.  Wing on wing this proved to be very comfortable with a low sea state and I settled in for the long run, informing the agent in Saumlaki that we would be a day late.  The light breeze held and I was able to sail right up into the anchorage at Saumlaki at first light, avoiding the early morning fishermen in their small boats and scattered fish traps.

Getting ashore in Saumlaki is via the stern ramp of a ferry moored alongside a jetty.  Not the easiest access and the stern ramp is rusty with sharp edges, perfect for putting holes into inflatable dinghies.  I decided to haul the dinghy onto the ramp to avoid damage.  On the ferry I met up with Bobby who is helping me out to check into Indonesia, then the fun started.

First was Quarantine, They came out to the boat and checked all was OK and we swapped copious amounts of paperwork, the ships stamp came in handy.  Then it was the turn of the customs and immigration.  The customs only sent one man out to inspect the boat as my dinghy is so small.  The Immigration decided not to visit the boat in the dinghy and satisfied themselves with taking photos of Truce from a distance.  Why immigration wanted to visit the boat is a mystery, they could not answer my question. During the day, I was flitting from office to office on the back of Bobby’s motorbike and of course we had a lunch break.

The following day it was back to customs as they had put the wrong port of registry on my documents.  Then to the Port health to get the health clearance, then to the Harbour Master to get my port clearance.  Phew, a relief to get everything done.  Its not a difficult process but takes time and a great deal of paperwork with many repetitive questions from different organisations.  Bobby was a great help and obviously knows everyone in town.  His contact is Tel: +62 812 4092 0220 and email bobbybetaubun06@gmail.com .

After the clearance was complete I set off to buy beer as my stocks are getting worryingly low. Well, no Bintang in cans to be found in town, only big bottles.  Only one case of Anchor beer in small cans and the only other option is Anchor beer in large cans.  Anchor beer is OK but I prefer the small cans – but needs must and I now have sufficient beer on board to get me to a place where I may restock. 

In the vegetable market I was able to get some fruit, papaya and lime for breakfast, mangos, tomatoes, onions, cabbage and eggs.  No point is stocking up on fresh stuff as it goes off quickly in the heat and singlehanded, I can’t eat too much.  Cabbage, onions and eggs will last a while.

After my exertions of  the last couple of days I slept well.  Tomorrow, I will sail out of Saumlaki, it doesn’t have much to offer and getting ashore in the dinghy is a chore.  I don’t intend to sail far, just to a quiet anchorage where I can chill and relax before heading out again.