The wind didn’t return, the final 65 miles to Port Chalmers was achieved with the assistance of Mr. Yanmar.  He ran relentlessly for 12 hours, in a decreasing sea until we completed the final miles to Taiaroa Head in flat calm and brilliant sunshine.  A beautiful day to arrive.

Taiaroa Head. Photo Ray Penson
Taiaroa Head. Photo Ray Penson

I put a call through to the Otago Yacht Club to see if they had a berth available in Dunedin.  Unfortunately, they didn’t.  I then called the Port Control on VHF Channel 14, they very helpfully directed us to a visitor mooring in Deborah Bay.  The mooring turned out to be excellent, just around the corner from Careys Bay.

Careys Bay. Photo Ray Penson
Careys Bay. Photo Ray Penson

The afternoon was so nice we stayed on board, sat on deck, soaking up the sun and scenery, had drinks and snacks followed by a siesta.   The evening was rounded out with a hearty stew followed by a good night’s sleep.

Tuesday opened with a N’ly breeze and showers but soon cleared up and we went ashore for a walk and do a bit of exploring.  At lunch time we headed to the Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel.  Both lunch and beer were excellent, the further south we get the better the food seems to be.

Carey's Bay Historic Hotel. Photo Ray Penson
Carey’s Bay Historic Hotel. Photo Ray Penson

Another walk, back to Truce and then ashore again to the pub in the evening for a drink and pudding.  Well, we are on holiday!  Another great night’s sleep swinging around the visitor’s buoy.

Pilot Boat Pen Port Chalmers. Photo Ray Penson
Pilot Boat Pen Port Chalmers. Photo Ray Penson

Early Wednesday I received a call from New Zealand Courier Post in Dunedin to inform me that I had a package ready for collection.  This is the part for the self steering that has been repaired by Stark Bros Ltd in Lyttelton.  So, off we went to Dunedin on the number 14 bus that conveniently stops just where we land in the dinghy.  The trip into Dunedin was scenic, going along the harbour side.  Once in Dunedin the weather changed, a cold wind and overcast skies.  The hustle of the city and traffic noise was a bit disconcerting.

After collecting my package from the New Zealand Courier Post depot, we had a quick explore of Dunedin.  I think the place is a dump, I will be happy never to come here again and was eager to leave.  I have been here three times previously, each time it has been raining.  Not to break the record it started to drizzle and become miserable as we headed back to Careys Bay on the bus.  We were both happy to return to Truce and the warmth of the cabin as a cold S’ly wind whistled in the rigging.

Dunedin Railway Station. Photo Ray Penson
Dunedin Railway Station. Photo Ray Penson

On Thursday morning I opened the package from Starks.  The part looks to have been well repaired, I set about refitting it to the self steering.  An hour later Mickey was functioning and appears to be as good as new.  We are now ready to again.  The test will come on the sail down to Stewart Island.  Happy that Mickey had been repaired we headed ashore to the laundrette and four-square store.  Once again, we bought too many groceries – but as Ngozi says we are on holiday, which seems to be the excuse for any excess.  We had an excellent lunch in Port Chalmers and the café also had draft beer, I like this place.

Main Street Port Chalmers. Photo Ray Penson
Main Street Port Chalmers. Photo Ray Penson

We are now waiting for a weather window to sail south to Stewart Island.  I don’t think we will have to wait long and are looking forward to this next step in the cruise.


Add yours

  1. I spent 6 weeks in Dunedin one summer. The temperature would drop to 4ºC at night. My friends at the university told (1) This is unusual weather (2) We say that every year.

    I had a wonderful time. There had been a red tide, so those wonderful green mussels couldn’t be exported. The price dropped to the floor: we gorged on them.

    There is half a metre of snow on the ground here in New York. It’s nice to read about your summer travels.


      1. Uh, yeah. Much of my life has been following a woman, and one took me there. I enjoyed those weeks in NZ very much, one of life’s high points.


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