COASTAL MAUI

By the time the wind had died down last night it was too late to go ashore, never mind, I had a couple of glasses of Mount Gay and settled in to watch a movie.  I watched an Australian film ‘Wolf Creek’ quite nasty and blood thirsty and based upon a true story.  It didn’t give me any bad dreams and I slept like a baby.

This morning I put the kayak in the water and headed off to shore.  On approaching the beach, I was met by a bunch of people hurling some serious abuse at me vociferous manner.  They were making it clear that I was not wanted and that I should take my boat and head out.  Well, the natives were certainly restless, there was no point in going ashore if that was the reception, no way I could leave the inflatable kayak on the beach unattended.  Instead I went for a kayak along the shore and used some muscles I had forgotten existed.

Later inn the day I spoke to an American couple on a boat about this unusual incident and they said they had heard there was a group of people at that place that were hostile to anyone using the beach from boats.  What a shame, they live in near paradise and still have anger management problems.  Oh well, another stitch in the rich tapestry of life.

Papaya for breakfast.  What a great breakfast fruit with some fresh lemon squeezed on.  The papaya here is the best I have tasted since Nigeria.

After breakfast, I picked up the anchor and sailed across to Maalaea Harbour to see if they had a transient berth available.  I didn’t like the look of the place so headed back out and down the coast towards Mc Gregor Point past some lovely secluded sandy beaches.  At Mc Gregor point the wind switched from fifteen knots to zero, you could clearly see the wind line on the water.

My next stop was Lahaina Harbour.  I poked my nose in, its quite tight inside, not much room to turn around.  I tried call in the harbourmaster but the office is shut until Monday.  I will call again, I hope they have a berth available for a couple of nights.  The town from the sea looks great and I would like to spend some time there.

This evening I anchored at Mala, just along the coast from Lahaina.  As soon as I had anchored an American couple arrived, Hayden and Marina, in an inflatable, asking if I needed anything and offered to run me ashore to the shops.  They had watched me sail into the anchorage and seen the New Zealand flag.  I happily accepted their offer for a run ashore and now have fresh milk, cheese, eggs, fruit and veg on board.  The fruit and veg here is awesome, looks like it’s just been collected from the garden and tastes wonderful.

I will cook something delicious and fresh tonight and then plan to watch Salmon fishing in Yemen.  Sounds bizarre.

SAILING FROM BIG ISLAND

Alinuihaha Channel, you lived up to your reputation and I shall never forget you. The crossing of the Channel was boisterous with tremendous winds and waves experienced just before arriving at the southern tip of Maui.  The trip is not to be taken lightly, the first part up to the tip of the big island is along a lee shore with no possible shelter available.  Then, when committed to crossing the channel there is little room for bailing out other than running south to the west coast of the Big Island.

Maalaea Harbour Entrance.Truce Anchored in Lono Harbour.PHOTO Ray Penson
Maalaea Harbour Entrance.Truce Anchored in Lono Harbour.PHOTO Ray Penson

We made the one-hundred-mile trip from Hilo to La Perouse Bay in seventeen hours.  It could have been much faster but I was trying to keep the speed down to reasonable levels, at one stage I had nine point five showing on the GPS, which is too much.

By one in the morning Truce was anchored in La Perouse Bay, gently pitching and rolling to the low southerly swell entering the bay.  When we arrived at La Perouse bay it was pitch dark and the shore line couldn’t be seen.  I could hear the breakers crashing on the rocks but couldn’t tell how far off they were.  It was a relief at daylight to see that we had found the right anchor spot.

Truce Anchored in Lono Harbour.PHOTO Ray Penson
Truce Anchored in Maalaea Bay. Truce Anchored in Lono Harbour.PHOTO Ray Penson

La Perouse Bay is quite scenic but not much happening there, unless you are into snorkelling.  The water is crystal clear, I could easily see the anchor on the bottom in ten meters.  The Bay is surrounded with volcanic basalt type rock, a bit like Rangitoto in New Zealand but on a bigger scale.  After breakfast, I decided to move on the Sugar Beach in Maalaea Bay.  I had good reports about the place, cafes, restaurants, farmers market, bus into town, nice beach etc.

Upon arrival at Sugar Beach, at two in the afternoon, the wind was howling, about twenty-five knots from onshore.  I anchored, the anchor held.  Now I am sitting on board listening to the wind howling in the rigging as Truce bobs around the anchor.  I can’t go ashore, it’s too windy to leave the boat and I am sure the rubber duck would be blown over the horizon in no time.  So, frustration has set in, I can see the shore, I can hear the shore, I can smell the shore but can’t get there at the moment.

The wind is expected to reduce as the sun goes down and the land cools.  By ten in the evening we can expect calm conditions and the cycle repeats itself the next day with wind building from ten in the morning.

During my time here I have only encountered two other cruising boats.  The lack of sheltered anchorages and ports means that cruisers mainly avoid the place.  Hawaii is a major crossroads on the cruising circuit but it seems most go the established marinas in Honolulu where there are full facilities and services before sailing onwards.