It’s now a week since I left sunny NZ.  The first couple of days at Canoe Cove were not too flash, I caught some disease (United Airlines food poisoning maybe) and felt awful.  For two days I was pretty useless, feeling cold and miserable and couldn’t eat.  Luckily, I stayed at an Airbnb just five minutes walk away from the boatyard for four days so had a warm bed to return to each night.

A Cold Afternoon at Canoe Cove. Photo, Ray Penson
A Cold Afternoon at Canoe Cove. Photo, Ray Penson

Well its rained every day since I have been here, real spring weather, rain on and off.  When the sun comes out its glorious for a few minutes then the cloud and bitterly cold wind kick in again.  Not the best antifouling weather and it’s taken me 4 days to get the hull ready for the final coats to go on.  When I did the antifouling in Alaska last year I saved money by using Petit antifouling paint.  Well, cheap is not always good and I have spent a lot of time sanding and scraping the Petit paint down to a good substrate.  This time I am using International CRC paint and hope it will do a good job on its way back to NZ.

I just received a bunch of Pacific charts from Redwise ship delivery.  So kind of them, it will save me money and give me paper chart back up should my electronics fail.  Redwise is the company I do ship delivery for and they are a top quality outfit and very professional.

Looking back on the past week I don’t seem to have achieved much.  Truce is in a terrible mess, I have sail bags heaped in the salon and spare gear scattered all over the place.  I had a new shaft and dripless stern seal installed over the winter and want to leave the aft lockers clear for when we get back into the water so I can see if we have any leaks.  On Tuesday when we floating again I can start stowing things and getting shipshape again.

Tomorrow should see the first coat of antifouling finished – I cant wait to be finished with this job.



Today Ngozi and I had some quality time together in Hoonah.  Once the usual chores of laundry, provisioning and maintenance were out of the way we went for a walk around Hoonah.  Its not a big place so its not a difficult mission but the locals are friendly and always have time for a chat so it’s a pleasant experience.

Walking around Hoonah
Walking around Hoonah

In the evening we visited Icy Strait Brewing again to sample the latest brew.  It’s pretty strong stuff and after three glasses each we felt no pain.

Ngozi is flying out to New Zealand tomorrow morning, it has been fantastic to have company again but the time has gone too quickly.  I will be sorry to see her go.  We have been very lucky with the weather, beautiful calm warm days and balmy nights.  We have experienced the Glaciers calving, whales feeding and a whole range of wildlife – apart from bears.  It’s been a unique experience for both of us.

Tomorrow I will start the next voyage south from Hoonah to Victoria BC.  I haven’t decided which route south to take yet, maybe the weather will decide for me in the morning.  Total Voyage distance 1,632.8 miles.


Hartley Bay is an interesting place, I went for an explore last night.  it’s a small Indian community with access by boat, helicopter or seaplane.  There is no road access and in fact no roads.  The village is connected by raised wooden boardwalks upon which ATV’s, quads and Polaris whiz around.  The ground is quite wet so buildings are elevated off the earth and connected by bridges to the boardwalks.

Hartley Bay, Image Google map
Hartley Bay, Image Google map

This morning we caught the tide up Grenville Channel, first we sailed, tacking up the channel against the wind.  We covered quite a distance from side to side but didn’t make much actual progress up the channel so Mr Yanmar was called into action, his mighty 24 horsepower soon has us scooting along, helped by the current.

Grenville Channel British Columbia
Grenville Channel British Columbia

I have been up and down Grenville Channel in the past on big ships, navigating between Prince Rupert and Vancouver.  I must say, after a few transits on a big ship the channel is quite boring, just water and trees on hills.  The perspective from a small boat is quite different, I am now happy that the weather forced this route on me.

This evening we are anchored at Lowe Inlet which is the first anchorage northbound on the channel.  Only one other yacht, the American boat from Harvey Bay, came up the channel today.

A number of local fishing boats have popped into the inlet for the night as well.  Tomorrow will be a late start to get the lift of the ebb towards Klewnugget Inlet where there is supposed to be the ‘most beautiful’ anchorage.  We will probably have to motor again as the wind will be blowing down the channel towards us.  Total Voyage distance 582.2 miles.

Logged 23rd May 2016

Image: bcmarina (Grenville Channel British Columbia)