ISLAND HOPPING WESTWARD

7 November 2023

The sail from Perai to Kokar was slow going.  We had the wind against tide thing, tide rips, calms and a bit of wind to keep insanity at bay.  Despite drifting and going backwards at times, we made Kokar on Pulau Alor in one and a half days.  I also put the clocks back an hour to central Indonesian time, another milestone on the journey.  There aren’t many options for anchoring in Kokar.  I found a spot in twenty meters of water, close to the reef and some moored fishing boats.

I am still not too comfortable with this reef navigation stuff.  People tell me you need the sun at your back and someone up the mast or on the bow.  Well, I can’t arrange where the sun goes and being on the bow or up the mast when single handing is impracticable.  The use of georeferenced satellite images is very helpful, in most cases the reefs can be clearly seen on the images.

Early morning in Kokar and numerous fishing boats started to enter port, I assume that they must have a market or something going on today.  As I was weighing anchor, boats were buzzing by either side out of the early morning gloom.  Not many have lights, you usually hear their unsilenced engines before you see them.

From Pulau Alor it was an eighteen-mile run across to Kabir on Pulau Pantar.  The distance between the islands and anchorages is becoming less now and from here to Bali onwards I should be able to  day hop along the island chain.  Approaching Kabir we had a large thunder cloud ahead.  I was hoping for some refreshing rain, all we got was a few drops that didn’t even wash the decks.

We are starting to see a lot more FADS (Fish Attracting Devices) now.  These take many shapes and forms and are mostly unlit at night making night time navigation a risky business.  These FADs can be moored in very deep water, you never know where they may pop up. Getting tangled up with one of these in the dark would not be a nice experience.

The anchorage at Kabir was quite spacious, I found a spot in fifteen meters of water near some local boats which turned out to be very comfortable for the night. 

Shortly after anchoring some of the local boys came out in a leaky canoe.  They were happy to chat, practice their English and get some treats for their troubles.  I gave them a pack of Indomie each, the universal currency of kids worldwide.  Unfortunately, their canoe sank on the way back to shore and I fear their noodles got a saltwater soaking.

The next morning, we were on the way again, this time to Balurin on Pulau Kawula, about a thirty six mile run.  We managed a full hour of sailing with all sail set before having to resort to motor once again.  I have given up waiting for wind.  If the wind is there I will sail, if not I will motor sail or if its calm I will motor.  There are no other options if I want to arrive in Bali mid-December.

Coming around Tanjung Pau on the north end of Pulau Kawula was impressive, a headland with the mountain in the background rising to fifteen hundred meters.  Houses scattered and precariously  clinging to the steep slopes. The photo does not do it justice.

Balurin anchorage turned out to be a delight.  Entry is through the reefs and a dog’s leg into the harbour where a natural basin opens out with plenty of sheltered space to anchor.  Along by the side of the harbour are waterfront properties on stilts – Highly desirable sea view and mooring for the boat outside the lounge, a real estate agent could really talk that up.

I would have liked to spend the day looking around Balurin but I was on a schedule to get to Loweleba where there is an ATM and some stores.  I need some cash to buy provisions, and Loweleba has both.  I just hope that its open on Sunday.  The run to Loweleba is thirty miles, unfortunately, its not all in the right direction and I will be doubling back on myself a bit. 

The route to Loweleba is through the Boling Strait where a good current can run.  I calculated the best transit time and we got an excellent push through.  The anchorage at Loweleba is average, we anchored in nine meters of water just off the Olympic Ballroom.  The Olympic Ballroom was in full swing that night, the bass on the speakers was awesome, setting things buzzing on the boat.  Those closer to the action may have ringing ears in the morning I suspect.

Like most anchorages in Indonesia, there is no facility to land with a dinghy.  I found a space just past the commercial dock on a patch of sand, the local boys promised to look after the dinghy for me.  From there I went to the Olympic Hotel and had breakfast, not a feast but good value.  Then the hunt for money.  There are a number of ATM’s in town and at the fifth one I managed to withdraw cash.  Now for provisions.  It was Sunday and the Christian ladies were all coming out of church, looking very smart and happy in their Sunday best.  But, the shops were open and I collected a few things including fresh bread.  It was so hot ashore I just wanted to get back to the boat, I didn’t get all the provisions I needed but I have enough for a few days. Loweleba seems to have an identity crisis.  I have seen the town name spelt four different ways.  Maybe its areas and suburbs, not sure. 

Back on the boat I spliced and rigged a new reefing line for the first mainsail reef and did an oil change on the engine.  I normally do an oil change every 150 hours but it’s been running so much and the seawater is so warm, not providing as much cooling as usual, I did this one at 120 hours.  The little engine works so hard I don’t mind pampering it a bit.

I got an early morning start from Loweleba for the sail around to Teluk Sagu on the island of Andonara.  I calculated an early start would get me a good push north through the Boling Strait.  My calculations were wrong, we had the current against us going up through the strait, speed down to one and a half knots at times.  I recalculated my figures and couldn’t find anything wrong – just how it is sometimes.

The anchorage at Teluk Sagu is delightful, at the end of a bay protected by some reefs.  Ashore is a fine beach and coconut trees.  I sat in the cockpit having a sundowner beer watching a local family tending their cows, goats and collecting firewood.  It looks idyllic but in reality, its subsistence living with no luxuries.  However, the people do seem very happy with what they have.

Today we have clocked just over a thousand miles since leaving Gove in Australia.  It feels much more than a thousand miles, they have not been easy.  The next six hundred miles to Bali should be easier as it will be mostly day hop sailing along the coast of Flores, Sumbawa and then Lombok.  As Dory may say, just keep sailing, sailing, sailing.