Tag: solo sailing

ARRIVING VANUATU AND HOSPITAL VISIT

My first taste of Vanuatu Tusker Beer, its good. Photo Ray Penson

On the way down from Lata I had developed ugly looking ulcers around my mouth and lips.  I was worried about what was causing them, I set off to find the hospital.  It was a long walk to the hospital along the road to the airstrip.  I managed to arrive before the doctor finished for the day.  I told the doctor about my recent malaria and the drugs I was taking.  He responded that the ulcers were a common side effect of the Primaquine tablets I was taking.  The doctor gave me some multivitamin pills and said the ulcers will clear up when I finish the course of treatment.  That was a relief, it wasn’t some flesh-eating tropical disease.

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STRUCK DOWN WITH MALARIA

Truce anchored at Shaw Point. Photo Ray Penson

The speed picked up and I furled the yankee.  We raced ahead through the night with just the staysail and double reefed main.  It was blowing gale force now and we were going too fast.  My illness had returned again.  I was in a bad way, sleeping on the cockpit seats.  I just had to let the boat go, Mickey was doing a great job of steering and I seemed to be drifting in and out of consciousness.  At one stage we took a wave into the cockpit, I was washed off the seat into the cockpit well, sloshing around in the water with a bucket and a bunch of ropes.  I just climbed back on the seat and went back to sleep, soaking wet.  Truce could look after herself. 

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COASTING SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND, SOLOMONS

Another sunrise in the Solomon islands. Photo Ray Penson

I noticed I was being followed so stopped to see what was going on.  The gentlemen approached me and introduced himself, he was a policemen.  Would I like to come to the station for a chat?  I had nothing else to do and this seemed interesting so I tagged along.  It transpired that the novelty of a non local white man wandering around has aroused their curiosity – that was all.  We had a good chat.  I was happy to take my time as the room was air conditioned and it was hot outside.  Soon I was on my way again and did a bit of shopping with the last of my cash at a local store before returning to the boat. 

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WINDLESS FROM GIZO TO CONFLICT BAY

Rua Sura Island, the wind picked up as I anchored. Photo Ray Penson

That afternoon we anchored at Rendova Island inside a protected lagoon.  It was still raining heavily and two girls (Sisters) came out to visit in a canoe, they were completely bedraggled and shivering cold.  They brought the most appealing and healthy vegetables I have ever seen.  Despite the cold and rain they were cheerful and happy to trade.  As they had such amazing produce and had endured the weather to get to me I gave them more than I probably should have.  But they were delightful young ladies and cheered me up.  We were both happy with the trade and that’s all that matters.     

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BEATEN BACK BY THE CURRENT AND FICKLE WINDS

Struggling to depart Kavieng, butting wind and current.

Departing Kavieng was hard work, a light onshore wind threatened to put us onto a lee shore, thankfully the wind freshened a bit, allowing us to head away and clear the land. Then the wind died and the current pushed us westwards, losing ground and making interesting track patterns on the navigation plotter. There followed a series of squalls making for uncomfortable sailing, on a positive note I was able to fill the water tanks with nice fresh rainwater. This carried on for two days, yo-yoing back and forth with the squalls but slowly making progress eastwards.

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DENTAL REPAIRS IN PNG

Market boat landing in Kavieng, doing a diesel fuel resupply run. Photo Ray Penson

Upon entering the clinic I was met by a gentleman behind a desk, the receptionist I assumed.  I explained my problem to him, he came around the desk and had a look in my mouth.  Oh yes, he said, I can fix that, he led me to another room, sat me in the dental chair and said he would be back in a couple of minutes.  Now I had to assume that the receptionist was in fact the dentist even if he didn’t have a white coat on. 

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WEEVILS CAUSE BROKEN TOOTH

Getting ready to take the Banana Boat to Kavieng Town for inward Clearance. Photo Ray Penson

As my shop bought bread had run out I decided to make some bread with fresh flour I had bought in Biak.  When I opened the flour container I was greeted by whole bunch of Weevils. The second flour container was also similarly infested.  I really dislike weevils, the flour went over the side immediately.  Bread was off the menu but my craving for bread only intensified.

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THE NINIGO ISLANDS ARE WONDERFUL

Manaus, Fisherman and his children came to visit. Photo Ray Penson

The overnight sail to the Hermits was beautiful, clear skies, millions of stars and a steady light breeze pushing us along nicely over calm seas.  The next morning we entered the lagoon surrounding the Hermits and lost the wind in the lee of the islands.  On went the motor and soon we were safely anchored.  Then the weather turned nasty again with rain squalls and a nasty chop bouncing us around.  The entry in the log book reads “A shitty windy and wet day”.  That was it, no canoes came to visit, no fresh fruit to trade and no shore leave for the Truce crew.

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WIND, RAIN AND REPAIRS

Rain Radar from Bali.

It was hard to see anything through the driving rain, I was concerned about the boats around me dragging in the heavy winds.  I had everything ready should we break loose from our mooring as I tried to monitor the boats around us.  I saw forty-five knots on the anemometer and suspect we had a couple of fifty knot gusts at the height, but I wasn’t watching.  The village ashore took a pounding, I could see lots of flashlights through the rain as the locals tended their houses and boats.

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DIY WATER MAKER

Water Maker installation almost finished. Photo Ray Penson

The idea of making fresh water from seawater on the boat is very appealing and adds another level of independence to cruising.  But such a luxury comes at a cost - money, space, added complexity and power.  Being mainly single handed with a small yacht my freshwater requirements are modest, most off the shelf water makers didn’t fit with my needs.  So, I thought why not look at making one to fit the boat and my expectations.

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