The speed picked up and I furled the yankee. We raced ahead through the night with just the staysail and double reefed main. It was blowing gale force now and we were going too fast. My illness had returned again. I was in a bad way, sleeping on the cockpit seats. I just had to let the boat go, Mickey was doing a great job of steering and I seemed to be drifting in and out of consciousness. At one stage we took a wave into the cockpit, I was washed off the seat into the cockpit well, sloshing around in the water with a bucket and a bunch of ropes. I just climbed back on the seat and went back to sleep, soaking wet. Truce could look after herself.
COASTING SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND, SOLOMONS
I noticed I was being followed so stopped to see what was going on. The gentlemen approached me and introduced himself, he was a policemen. Would I like to come to the station for a chat? I had nothing else to do and this seemed interesting so I tagged along. It transpired that the novelty of a non local white man wandering around has aroused their curiosity – that was all. We had a good chat. I was happy to take my time as the room was air conditioned and it was hot outside. Soon I was on my way again and did a bit of shopping with the last of my cash at a local store before returning to the boat.
WINDLESS FROM GIZO TO CONFLICT BAY
That afternoon we anchored at Rendova Island inside a protected lagoon. It was still raining heavily and two girls (Sisters) came out to visit in a canoe, they were completely bedraggled and shivering cold. They brought the most appealing and healthy vegetables I have ever seen. Despite the cold and rain they were cheerful and happy to trade. As they had such amazing produce and had endured the weather to get to me I gave them more than I probably should have. But they were delightful young ladies and cheered me up. We were both happy with the trade and that’s all that matters.
CLEARING INTO THE SOLOMONS
The Customs office in Gizo is easy to access being in town. The only picture hanging on the wall is a very old photo of Queen Elizbeth II. I asked why it was still there as she has passed away. I was told that no one had said take it down! So, I suppose it will be there forever until some higher authority makes an executive decision.
DENTAL REPAIRS IN PNG
Upon entering the clinic I was met by a gentleman behind a desk, the receptionist I assumed. I explained my problem to him, he came around the desk and had a look in my mouth. Oh yes, he said, I can fix that, he led me to another room, sat me in the dental chair and said he would be back in a couple of minutes. Now I had to assume that the receptionist was in fact the dentist even if he didn’t have a white coat on.
SAILORS INVISIBLE TOOL SYNDROME (SITS)
At this stage the experienced SITS sufferer will walk away from the problem and put the kettle on for a cup of tea, take a walk or any other activity that will distract from the problem. Only then can you return to the search, usually to find the tool or vital part sitting in full view on the work bench where you left it.
BORNEO – LABUAN TO KUDAT
The waiting at Labuan has been so stressful, If the anchorage had been safe and secure I would be in a completely different state of mind. Anyway, eager to remove myself from this place I bought a few last-minute fresh food items and without regret sailed out from Labuan. Both Truce and I happy to be back in clean waters and heading northwards up the coast.
MIRI TO LABUAN AND NEAR DISASTER
The Marina at Miri was good despite poor facilities, management obviously don’t care about customers. Toilets shitty (literally) and showers rudimentary and dirty. On the positive side there were no busybodies patrolling the docks and trying to enforce nonsensical rules. The tranquility and lack of bureaucracy was welcome. To be secure alongside a dock was good with easy access to the shore and the town.
THE LAST TEABAG
There it is, the last Extra Strong Breakfast Tea Bag. Before leaving New Zealand I took a good stock on board and then managed to top up my stock in Australia. The last couple of months I have been on rations and today, early morning, I enjoyed the last Bag. Some people drink coffee to get going in the morning, but for me it’s a strong tea with milk and honey that does the trick.
THINGS GO BUMP IN THE NIGHT
With Truce doing a more reasonable six knots I was dozing in the cockpit when I was awoken by a clattering and banging on the hull. My fears were realised, we had run over some floating bamboo contraption all lashed together with bits of rope.