On the way down from Lata I had developed ugly looking ulcers around my mouth and lips. I was worried about what was causing them, I set off to find the hospital. It was a long walk to the hospital along the road to the airstrip. I managed to arrive before the doctor finished for the day. I told the doctor about my recent malaria and the drugs I was taking. He responded that the ulcers were a common side effect of the Primaquine tablets I was taking. The doctor gave me some multivitamin pills and said the ulcers will clear up when I finish the course of treatment. That was a relief, it wasn’t some flesh-eating tropical disease.
STRUCK DOWN WITH MALARIA
The speed picked up and I furled the yankee. We raced ahead through the night with just the staysail and double reefed main. It was blowing gale force now and we were going too fast. My illness had returned again. I was in a bad way, sleeping on the cockpit seats. I just had to let the boat go, Mickey was doing a great job of steering and I seemed to be drifting in and out of consciousness. At one stage we took a wave into the cockpit, I was washed off the seat into the cockpit well, sloshing around in the water with a bucket and a bunch of ropes. I just climbed back on the seat and went back to sleep, soaking wet. Truce could look after herself.
COASTING SAN CRISTOBAL ISLAND, SOLOMONS
I noticed I was being followed so stopped to see what was going on. The gentlemen approached me and introduced himself, he was a policemen. Would I like to come to the station for a chat? I had nothing else to do and this seemed interesting so I tagged along. It transpired that the novelty of a non local white man wandering around has aroused their curiosity – that was all. We had a good chat. I was happy to take my time as the room was air conditioned and it was hot outside. Soon I was on my way again and did a bit of shopping with the last of my cash at a local store before returning to the boat.
WINDLESS FROM GIZO TO CONFLICT BAY
That afternoon we anchored at Rendova Island inside a protected lagoon. It was still raining heavily and two girls (Sisters) came out to visit in a canoe, they were completely bedraggled and shivering cold. They brought the most appealing and healthy vegetables I have ever seen. Despite the cold and rain they were cheerful and happy to trade. As they had such amazing produce and had endured the weather to get to me I gave them more than I probably should have. But they were delightful young ladies and cheered me up. We were both happy with the trade and that’s all that matters.
CLEARING INTO THE SOLOMONS
The Customs office in Gizo is easy to access being in town. The only picture hanging on the wall is a very old photo of Queen Elizbeth II. I asked why it was still there as she has passed away. I was told that no one had said take it down! So, I suppose it will be there forever until some higher authority makes an executive decision.
ARRIVED GIZO – EXHAUSTED
As I was daydreaming, I suddenly noticed the depth sounder was reading 5 meters! Immediately I put the engine into neutral and we slowed, as we slowed the depth reduced, I gave a kick astern and we stopped. The depth now read zero, that means nothing under the keel! I checked everything, a flashlight over the side, we should be in deep water. Then I realised my mistake. I was so tired and my brain so befuddled, I had been reading the wind instrument instead of the depth sounder. As we reduced speed so the relative wind reduced to zero as we stopped. Clearly, I had not been thinking straight. I was very tired.
BEATEN BACK BY THE CURRENT AND FICKLE WINDS
Departing Kavieng was hard work, a light onshore wind threatened to put us onto a lee shore, thankfully the wind freshened a bit, allowing us to head away and clear the land. Then the wind died and the current pushed us westwards, losing ground and making interesting track patterns on the navigation plotter. There followed a series of squalls making for uncomfortable sailing, on a positive note I was able to fill the water tanks with nice fresh rainwater. This carried on for two days, yo-yoing back and forth with the squalls but slowly making progress eastwards.
DENTAL REPAIRS IN PNG
Upon entering the clinic I was met by a gentleman behind a desk, the receptionist I assumed. I explained my problem to him, he came around the desk and had a look in my mouth. Oh yes, he said, I can fix that, he led me to another room, sat me in the dental chair and said he would be back in a couple of minutes. Now I had to assume that the receptionist was in fact the dentist even if he didn’t have a white coat on.
WEEVILS CAUSE BROKEN TOOTH
As my shop bought bread had run out I decided to make some bread with fresh flour I had bought in Biak. When I opened the flour container I was greeted by whole bunch of Weevils. The second flour container was also similarly infested. I really dislike weevils, the flour went over the side immediately. Bread was off the menu but my craving for bread only intensified.
SAILORS INVISIBLE TOOL SYNDROME (SITS)
At this stage the experienced SITS sufferer will walk away from the problem and put the kettle on for a cup of tea, take a walk or any other activity that will distract from the problem. Only then can you return to the search, usually to find the tool or vital part sitting in full view on the work bench where you left it.