Banging to windward all last night and today on starboard tack. Getting to New Zealand is a battle, every mile must be won. I am not complaining – some are still in the north waiting for a break in the weather and one yachtsman is sheltering at Raoul Island.
The daybreak this morning was beautiful and the day is sparkling but the wind is cool from the south west. I am seeing more birdlife today, this morning we were visited by an albatross. The bird circled a couple of times before flying alongside, looking us over with the beady eye of the ancient mariner. What majestic animals.
This morning I was completing our voyage records and discovered that today Truce and I have just completed 10,000 miles together today. We did 2,700 plus miles last year between Canoe Cove and Glacier Bay in Alaska. This year we have done over 7,200 miles across the Pacific, from Canada to New Zealand. I would say we know each other quite well although I still have much to learn.
Now less than 300 miles to Opua. But we still have a calm patch and a gale to get through. The maximum forecast winds for Tuesday have just increased from thirty-nine to forty-two knots. Oh boy – I don’t fancy that. I will hank on the storm staysail tomorrow.
Yesterday was a damp squid. Rain all Saturday night and Sunday morning. Sunday was overcast, wet and showery, cool all day. Onshore it was very quiet, hardly anyone about, shops all shut. I suppose everyone has gone to church and retreated home, the sort of day you want to have a nice fire and stay put.
Today is sunny with a nice cool breeze. I walked over to the customs office and enquired about clearing out – particularly if I could clear out and anchor out for a day or two. The first customs guy said no problem, I could have 24 hours after clearing out. Then his boss with four stripes came and said no. I would only have an hour to leave after clearing out and I could not go to anchor. He said he had problems with other yachts clearing out and then anchoring for days and it must stop.
I would like to go out and anchor for a couple of days. But if I need to come back into port for clearance its not worth the trouble. I will hang around in Nuku’alofa until it’s time to depart.
The passing of the rain has unleashed a plague of Mosquitoes. These are serious insects, cunning and tenacious. I have the mosquito screens in place buy still they find a way in. On board I have some mosquito and fly spray from Alaska, it worked fine in Alaska – stopping deer fly without any problems. But – it doesn’t seem to worry the Tongan Mosquitos, they just keep coming. One of the disadvantages of being tied up in port.
Later I wandered into town. Everybody is very friendly and after being here for a few days people are recognising me (and me them) and the greeting are turning into conversations. So many of the people I speak with have been to, lived in or have relatives in New Zealand. It seems the remittances from family members in New Zealand plays a big part bin the economy here.
Previously I have extolled the qualities of Tonga bacon. When walking about outside the main town you can see pigs and piglets running around, foraging all over the place. They look happy, contented and plump. Good bacon must be the result of such a life.
The rain from yesterday evening continued overnight, finally giving way to some sunshine mid-morning. I spent a few minutes bailing out the pig before we could go ashore – amazing how much water collected overnight.
By ten I had visited the customs and port office to clear out from the Vava’u group. The tonnage dues came to less than ten dollars, all up the clearance into and out of Neiafu cost one hundred and thirty-one dollars.
Next on the ‘to do’ list was getting some fresh fruit and veg Fresh veg, eggs and topping up on a few dry goods. The market down by the wharf has an excellent selection of fresh produce where we also got fresh eggs.
On the way back to Truce we decided to have an early lunch at Indigo café. Our favourite café as they also seem to have decent WiFi. Eggs and bacon for me and BLT for Jessica. The bacon here is so good – unfortunately we forgot to buy some in the store.
Just after one in the afternoon we dropped the mooring and headed out of Neiafu harbour with a stiff breeze behind us. We headed to Tapana Lagoon where a friend, Steve, was moored. I met Steve last year at Warm Springs Bay, Baranof Island in Alaska. Steve is also headed back to New Zealand but at a far more leisurely pace than mine.
At three in the afternoon we entered Tapana Lagoon and saw Steve’s lovely yacht ‘Rhapsody’ tucked up in the corner, nicely sheltered. We were fortunate to find a vacant mooring close alongside and before long we were securely moored in a beautiful peaceful little bay, completely sheltered from the easterly trades.
The evening was spent on Rhapsody, chatting, eating and drinking Rum. We were joined by Linda, a charming Australian lady who is sailing her yacht single handed. Steve produced a surprisingly good Spaghetti Bolognaise – a great night was had by all.
Tomorrow morning we will rise early to head south towards Pangai in the Ha’apai Group. We need to keep heading in the direction of Nuku’alofa to make the connection with Jessica’s flight back to Melbourne on the 29th.