Today it was my intention to have an easy travel up the Granville Channel and stay overnight at Kumealon Inlet. We had a five o’clock start to get the ebb and made good time. The weather was cold, overcast with low cloud and drizzle, but there was no wind and absolute calm. When we arrived at Kumealon. I decided to continue and make the most of the calm conditions as north westerly winds had been forecast again.
We carried on and Arrived at Gunboat Harbour on Gibson Island at the top of Granville Channel where we anchored. I had lunch and a siesta was needed after such an early start. An hour later I was woken by a bunch of fishermen who were also using the anchorage for rafting up and doing fishy stuff. As it was still calm and the tide was turning in our favour I decided to make a hop over to Lawson Harbour just off Porcher Island and anchor there for the night.
Today was cold again, its four days since we have seen the sun. I was passed by an American sailor today, he had full cold gear on including woolly hat and gloves. I feel better now, I thought I was being a wimp and needed to harden up. But other people are feeling the cold as well, its not just me. I will look for some gloves at the next port call.
We did eight and a half hours motoring today, there is no option when there is no wind. We are now clear of Grenville Channel and into more open waters again. Options for tomorrow are either Prince Rupert or Port Edward. I may try Port Edward first as I have to clear out from Prince Rupert anyway. Total voyage distance 632.2 miles.
We caught the tide up Grenville Channel this afternoon from Lowe Inlet where we passed a comfortable night at anchor. We anchored just inside the entrance to the inlet on a bank and I expected to be disturbed by the wash from passing ships, but it was all peaceful. I have only seen two cruise ships so far, its still early in the season.
It was a good job we had the tide behind us today as the North Westerly wind and chop were on the nose and it would have been very heavy going without a push. This is the last time I will come up Grenville Channel so am making the most of it with three stops planned. Today we passed the narrow section and a couple of big waterfalls, particularly spectacular is the waterfall at Saunders Creek as it spills from a mountain lake high above. There are quite a few bald eagles along the Channel, some flying very high, don’t know why they fly so high.
The weather was gloomy today, overcast with the odd rain shower. The wind was bitterly cold and I had full thermals and multiple layers and still felt the chill. My thermometer says it was ten degrees, it felt like minis ten. I expect it will start warming up next month as we get into summer.
This evening we pulled into Klewnuggit Inlet. The anchorage that I targeted was, as the book said, spectacular. High mountains and sheer granite cliffs on three sides. The problem is that high mountains mean an early sunset and late sunrise. Its gets cold after sunset and I didn’t fancy a cold night so moved out to another anchorage. Its hard to find shallow water here to anchor in, I am in a bay very close to the shore where I found some water less than twenty meters deep, just have enough room to swing and clear the rocks.
Tomorrow I expect to overnight at Kumealon Inlet on the north shore of Grenville Channel. Total voyage distance 599.9
Curlew Bay proved to be a nice quiet anchorage and I had a good sleep. A bit of a late start today, we are heading up to the village of Hartley Bay and it’s not far so no hurry. The wind was very light from the south and we sailed under the jib slowly up to Hartley Bay.
Hartley Bay is an Indian village and the last populated place before Prince Rupert. There are two other yachts in the harbour this evening, both are American. Bill off the yacht Nayeli helped me tie up which is always welcome when single handed. Bill and his wife are also headed up to Glacier Bay and will be travelling North on a similar schedule to me through Grenville Channel. The other American yacht is going south to Seattle from Sitka.
These people were the first humans I have seen and spoken to since leaving Klemtu last Sunday. Just by sailing west for a day off the inside passage route, I took myself to a part of BC that is uninhabited and quite remote. I saw Seals, River Otters, furry animals in the woods, Bald Eagles, Whales, Dolphins, a gruesome Jellyfish, multiple species of Ducks and heaps of trees. But no bears yet!
Hartley Bay Harbour and Village. Photo Ray Penson
Hartley Bay Administration Office. Photo Ray Penson
Hartley Bay Harbour. Photo Ray Penson
Hartley Bay Harbour. Photo Ray Penson
Nothing much going on in Hartley Bay on a Sunday night. It’s a dry village so no drinking alcohol allowed – I will sneak in a tot in the cabin. Tomorrow I will start up grenville Channel, just need to figure out the tides and current first. Total voyage distance nautical 556.2 miles. (That’s 1,030 Km in metric).